Desserts


PEAR AND ALMOND TART


Pears

4 cups water
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 medium-size firm but ripe Bosc pears, peeled (each about 7 ounces)

Crust

1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup blanched slivered almonds
1/4 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg yolk
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
Almond Filling
2/3 cup blanched slivered almonds
1 tablespoon all purpose flour
7 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg

Powdered sugar (optional)


For pears:
Bring 4 cups water, sugar, and lemon juice to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add pears. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until pears are very tender, turning occasionally, about 20 minutes. Cool pears in syrup. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

For crust:
Blend powdered sugar, almonds, and salt in processor until nuts are finely ground. Add butter and blend until smooth, scraping down sides of bowl occasionally. Mix in egg yolk. Add flour. Using on/off turns, blend until dough comes together in clumps. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 3 hours. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep refrigerated.)

For almond filling:
Finely grind almonds and flour in processor. Mix in 7 tablespoons sugar, then butter, blending until smooth. Mix in egg. Transfer filling to medium bowl. Cover and chill at least 3 hours. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.)

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375°F. Roll out chilled dough on floured sheet of parchment paper to 12-inch round, lifting and turning dough occasionally to free from paper. Using paper as aid, turn dough into 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom; peel off paper. Seal any cracks in dough. Trim overhang to 1/2 inch. Fold overhang in, making double-thick sides. Pierce crust all over with fork. Freeze crust 10 minutes.

Line crust with buttered foil, buttered side down, then fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake crust until sides are set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and beans. Bake crust until sides are golden and bottom is set, pressing with back of fork if crust bubbles, about 10 minutes longer. Cool crust in pan on rack. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.

Spread almond filling evenly in crust. Stem pears and cut each in half lengthwise; scoop out cores. Cut each half crosswise into thin slices. Gently press each pear half to fan slices but keep slices tightly overlapped. Slide spatula under pears and arrange atop filling like spokes of wheel with narrow ends in center.

Bake tart until golden and tester inserted into center of filling comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Cool tart in pan on rack. Push pan bottom up, releasing tart from pan. (Can be made 8 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.) Cut tart into wedges; sprinkle with powdered sugar, if desired, and serve.

Makes 8 servings.

SPICED MADELEINES
Spiced cakes, like the warm miniature madeleines served at Aix, in Manhattan, seemed the perfect pairing for the hibiscus tea sorbet and basil and orange ice creams.


3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted, plus 1 tablespoon (melted) for greasing molds
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs
Confectioners sugar for dusting
Special equipment: a madeleine pan with 12 (3- by 2-inch) molds (Available at many cookware shops and Bridge Kitchenware at 1-800-274-3435)


Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400°F. Brush molds with some melted butter, then chill until set, about 5 minutes. Brush molds again with some melted butter and chill pan.

Sift together flour, baking powder, spices, and a pinch of salt.

Whisk together sugars and eggs until combined well. Add flour mixture and whisk until just combined, then stir in remaining butter (6 tablespoons) until just incorporated. 3Spoon batter into molds, filling them about two thirds full. Bake 5 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 350°F and bake until springy to the touch and edges are lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Turn out onto a rack and cool 15 minutes. Just before serving, dust with confectioners sugar.

Cooks' note:
Madeleines can be made up to 6 hours ahead and are best eaten the same day.

Makes 12 madeleines.

LEMON CREME BRULEE
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr (includes chilling)


2 large lemons
3 cups heavy cream
About 10 tablespoons turbinado sugar such as Sugar in the Raw
6 large egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

 Special equipment: 8 (4-oz) flameproof ramekins; a small blowtorch (ask for assistance from a parent or guardian)


Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325
°F.

Finely grate 2 tablespoons zest from lemons into cream in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan. Stir in 7 tablespoons turbinado sugar and a pinch of salt. Heat mixture over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until almost boiling, then remove from heat.

Lightly beat yolks in a bowl, then gradually whisk in hot cream. Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a quart-size glass measure and stir in vanilla and 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice. Divide among ramekins.

Arrange ramekins in a roasting pan and bake in a
water bath until custards are just set around edge but centers wobble when pan is gently shaken, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool custards in water bath 20 minutes, then remove from pan and chill, uncovered, at least 4 hours. (Custards will set completely as they chill.) Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar evenly over each custard, then move blowtorch flame evenly back and forth close to sugar until sugar is caramelized. Let stand until caramel is hardened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Cooks' note:
Custards can be chilled, covered with a sheet of plastic wrap after 4 hours, up to 2 days. Very gently blot with paper towels before sprinkling with sugar and caramelizing.

Makes 8 servings.

DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
Mousse au Chocolat Noir
Chocolate mousse is a standard bistro dessert, in part because it's so easy and quick to serve. Here it is in its classic form: chocolate and butter melted together, cooled slightly, and combined with egg yolks; then whipped cream and sweetened egg whites are gently folded into the mixture. In France, they would serve chocolate mousse from a big bowl, scooped onto a plate with some cookies.


4 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, diced
2 tablespoons espresso or hot water
1 cup cold heavy cream
3 large eggs, separated
1 tablespoon sugar


Combine the chocolate, butter, and espresso in the top of a double boiler over hot, but not simmering, water, stirring frequently until smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool until the chocolate is just slightly warmer than body temperature. To test, dab some chocolate on your bottom lip. It should feel warm. If it is too cool, the mixture will seize when the other ingredients are added.

Meanwhile, whip the cream to soft peaks, then refrigerate. Once the melted chocolate has cooled slightly, whip the egg whites in a medium bowl until they are foamy and beginning to hold a shape. Sprinkle in the sugar and beat until soft peaks form.

When the chocolate has reached the proper temperature, stir in the yolks. Gently stir in about one-third of the whipped cream. Fold in half the whites just until incorporated, then fold in the remaining whites, and finally the remaining whipped cream.

Spoon or pipe the mousse into a serving bowl or individual dishes. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours. (The mousse can be refrigerated for up to a day.)

Makes 8 servings.
 
PUFF PASTRY TART FILLED WITH ALMOND CREAM
Galette des Rois

In France, it is traditional to serve this galette on January 6, the Feast of the Epiphany, 12 days after Christmas. Be careful not to bite too hard — you might get the dried bean hidden inside (to symbolize the baby Jesus). Whoever finds the bean in their slice is crowned king or queen for the day.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 55 min.


1/4 cup pure almond paste (2 oz)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 (17 1/4-oz) package frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed
1 dried bean such as a lima bean (optional)
1/2 tablespoon confectioners sugar


Preheat oven to 450°F.

Purée almond paste, granulated sugar, butter, and a pinch of salt in a food processor until smooth. Add 1 egg, vanilla, and almond extract and purée until incorporated. Add flour and pulse until incorporated.

Roll out 1 puff pastry sheet into an 11 1/2-inch square on a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, then brush off excess flour from both sides. Cut out an 11-inch round by tracing around an inverted plate with tip of a paring knife. Transfer round to a buttered large baking sheet (not dark metal, or pastry may brown too much), discarding trimmings, and chill. Repeat procedure with second pastry sheet, leaving round on floured surface.

Beat remaining egg with a fork and brush some over top of second round. Score round decoratively all over using tip of knife, then make several small slits all the way through pastry, at about 2-inch intervals, to create steam vents.

Brush some of egg in a 1-inch-wide border around edge of chilled pastry round (on baking sheet). Mound almond cream in center of chilled round, spreading slightly, and bury bean in cream. Immediately cover with decorated round and press edges together lightly. Holding a small spoon with side at an angle, press around edge to seal galette decoratively.

Bake galette in lower third of oven until puffed and pale golden, 13 to 15 minutes. Dust galette with confectioners sugar and bake in upper third of oven until edge is deep golden brown and shiny, 12 to 15 minutes more. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly, 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.

Makes 8 servings.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 45 min



1/3 cup sugar plus additional for sprinkling
5 oz bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), chopped
3 large egg yolks at room temperature
6 large egg whites Accompaniment: lightly sweetened whipped cream
Special equipment: a 5 1/2- to 6-cup glass or ceramic soufflé dish


Preheat oven to 375°F. Generously butter soufflé dish and sprinkle with sugar, knocking out excess.

Melt chocolate in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove bowl from heat and stir in yolks (mixture will stiffen).

Beat whites with a pinch of salt in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until they just hold soft peaks. Add 1/3 cup sugar, a little at a time, continuing to beat at medium speed, then beat at high speed until whites just hold stiff peaks. Stir about 1 cup whites into chocolate mixture to lighten, then add mixture to remaining whites, folding gently but thoroughly.

Spoon into soufflé dish and run the end of your thumb around inside edge of soufflé dish (this will help soufflé rise evenly). Bake in middle of oven until puffed and crusted on top but still jiggly in center, 24 to 26 minutes. Serve immediately.


Cooks' note:

Soufflé can be assembled up to 30 minutes before baking. Keep, covered with an inverted large bowl (do not let bowl touch soufflé), at room temperature.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.
BANANA ORANGE CREPES
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 50 min


For crêpes
1/3 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 large egg
2 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus additional for cooking crêpes

For topping
1 navel orange
1 firm-ripe finger banana or 1 (4-inch) piece firm-ripe regular banana
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur or Cognac (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped pecans, toasted


Make crêpes:
Whisk together milk, flour, egg, sugar, cinnamon, salt, and 2 teaspoons butter until smooth. Chill batter, covered, 30 minutes.

Lightly brush a 10-inch nonstick skillet with butter, then heat over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Holding skillet off heat, pour in half of batter (1/4 cup), immediately tilting and rotating skillet to coat bottom. (If batter sets before skillet is coated, reduce heat slightly for next crêpe.) Return skillet to heat and cook crêpe until just set and golden around edges, 10 to 15 seconds. Loosen edge of crêpe with a heatproof plastic spatula, then flip crêpe over carefully with your fingertips. Cook until underside is set, about 20 seconds more. Transfer crêpe to a plate. Brush skillet with more butter and make another crêpe in same manner. Reserve skillet.


Make topping and assemble dessert:

Cut peel, including all white pith, from orange with a sharp paring knife. Working over a bowl, cut segments free from membranes, letting segments fall into bowl, then squeeze 2 tablespoons juice from membranes into bowl (discard membranes).

Peel banana and halve lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces.

Melt butter in reserved skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides. Add sugar, then pour juice from bowl into sugar mixture and cook, swirling skillet, until sugar is dissolved. Add 1 crêpe to sauce and cook until crêpe is coated and heated through, about 15 seconds. Fold crêpe into quarters using tongs, then transfer to a heated dessert plate. Repeat with second crêpe.

Add orange segments and banana to skillet and cook, shaking skillet occasionally, until fruit is heated through, about 2 minutes. Add Grand Marnier or Cognac (if using) and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Spoon fruit over crêpes and sprinkle with pecans.

Serves 1.

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